General Information


Khan Tengri rises around 7000 m. above the sea level and it is certainly one of the more beautiful peaks in the world.  It is the second highest peak in the Tien Shan mountain range (the highest peak is peak Pobeda (7439m)) and certainly the most beautiful.  The two base camps on the Northern and Southern Inylchek glaciers respectively are generally accessible by helicopter.  The "northern normal route" is more difficult than the "southern normal route", but it is much less exposed to avalanches.
The weather is unpredictable and it is a good idea to have several days in reserve.  In general the best time to attempt the peak is the beginning of August.  It is a good idea to arrive at the base camp a little bit earlier and spend extensive time for acclimatization.
One does not need a mountaineering permit to climb Khan Tengri.  However depending on the approach to the base camp it is possible that a military permit is needed since the whole Tien Shan mountain range is a restricted area due to the fact that it is near to the border with China.

Camp 2 at 5 700m. on the north side of Khan Tengri

How to get to the North Inylchek glacier from Almaty.

The Northern Normal Route on Khan Tengri.

Maps.

Trip Report.